Scope of Work – policies and pricing for restoration/repair

 

CONTRACT FOR REPAIR/RESTORATION

Date_______________________

Project________________________

Client Name__________________________________________________

          Address_________________________________________________

          City/State/ZIP____________________________________________

          Phone  _____________________________

          Email (optional)__________________________________________

Summary of Work Needed: (to be completed by Angvick Antique Motors Co. only) ____________________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________________

Estimated Date of Completion:­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­_________________________ This date is an estimate only, and I will endeavor to complete the repair in a timely manner, given the details of the work.  Many times, parts for these antique pieces of equipment are extremely hard to find, or even non-existent and must be fabricated.  If delays are unavoidable, I will keep the client informed as to the nature of the delays, but again the estimated date of completion is my best guess prior to the start of the work, and not a guaranteed date by any means.

Description of Abilities;  As an antique automotive mechanic and dealer and principal owner of Angvick Antique Motors Co. (AAMC), my primary expertise is working on antique cars that were manufactured prior to 1940, although I do not limit my skills to this era of automobiles, nor to strictly automobiles.  I also have significant experience in the repair and restoration of ‘hit and miss’ stationary engines, boats, tractors and gasoline powered internal combustion engines that were designed prior to 1970.

Scope of Work:  Most antique cars, tractors, etc., that are in working condition after 70 or more years since their manufacture are an exception, and not the rule.  For the most part, extremely good care and constant maintenance are required to keep an old engine in running condition.  Accordingly, there are many parts, pieces and components that are worn out, or about to wear out but have not been diagnosed as potential sources of engine failure.  Unless I am informed up front and in writing of the problem at hand that needs correction or remediation/restoration, I cannot be held responsible for any and all pre-existing mechanical problems that arise during disassembly, re-assembly or after the project has been completed and returned to the customer.  In other words, I am not taking possession of a client’s equipment and immediately upon taking custody of the unit, assuming the responsibility for each and every unknown pre-existing problem or pending failure.  I can certainly diagnose additional problems during the course of my work if they become observable. I can only be held responsible for the work that has been predetermined and specifically discussed between the owner and myself, and nothing more.  If I find additional problems that I consider to have a high risk of imminent failure, I will of course inform the owner of the nature of the problem and provide an estimate of additional labor, time and materials to remedy the issue, or if for whatever reason I am not prepared to effect repairs, I will inform the customer of the issue and my reasons for declining to effect repairs.  All AAMC services are guaranteed for 12 months, effective the date of the final invoice, and cover only the services provided and exclude any client-caused failures, or failures covered by other vendors and/or contracts.

 IMPORTANT NOTE: once I begin disassembly of a client’s project that is 70 years old or older, it is entirely possible (and in all honesty, entirely likely) that a component after half a century of corrosion/wear and tear will crumble, break, or otherwise become an expensive component in need of replacement that was never discussed between the client and AAMC. It shall not become the responsibility of AAMC to return any such component to serviceability.

Labor Rates, Parts Costs and Payments Due:

Labor Rates:  All my time spent on effecting mechanical and cosmetic restoration/repair will be invoiced at $60.00 per hour if the work is done in my shop in Burlington, Illinois.  On occasion, I can effect repairs in the field/at the client’s facility if practical concerns prohibit transport of client’s vehicle to my shop.  All labor effected outside my shop/at the client’s facility will be invoiced at $90.00 per hour, plus travel time to be discussed with the client prior to billing.  If any components require me to tow the client’s vehicle to places removed from my shop (such as machine shops, welding shops, auto body shops, etc), a flat $105.00 fee each way will be assessed if remote vendor shop is within a 25 mile radius of Burlington, Illinois as determined by Mapquest.com. Any shops further away than 25 miles, towing fee will be calculated on a case by case basis.  Client is entirely free to effect these necessary hauls if they themselves have the equipment (trailer and tow vehicle).  Prior to any necessary towing, I will inform the client and allow them to decide how best to proceed before assessing any fees for towing.  If I am required to use my own vehicle to run parts/components back and forth to local vendors or parts houses, or any distant driving time required, I will invoice the client $35.00 per hour for my labor costs.  Any time spent by me on behalf of the client to complete a project, but not involving actual mechanical labor will be invoiced at $35.00 per hour (such as discussing requirements of the project with external services vendors, etc.).

Parts/External Services Costs:  Parts and external services (professional welding, body work/painting, upholstery, etc.) required for successful completion of the client’s project can be acquired/arranged for completion by either one of two methods:

  1. Client purchases the parts/external services.  Angvick Antique Motors Co. can notify the client of required parts/external services and on occasion where to obtain them, and the client will arrange the purchase and delivery of the parts to AAMC, or deal directly with the external service vendor.  The parts will be installed, but no guarantee of serviceability or durability will be offered by AAMC on any client purchased parts/external service contract.  If any part/external service failure occurs for any reason, the client would be responsible for pursuing refund, compensation or replacement from the original parts/external service vendor, and AAMC. will simply provide the labor to replace the client’s parts if necessary, or make available the client’s vehicle to the external service vendor.  No markup or fee of any kind will be applied to any parts/external service vendor invoice provided/paid for by the client.
  2. Angvick Antique Motors purchases the parts/external service.  Any and all parts or external services that are purchased by AAMC for installation on client’s vehicle are guaranteed to fulfill the part/external service vendor’s warrantee of serviceability or satisfactory application, or at a minimum will be honored by the AAMC 12 month warranty.  Any AAMC supplied part or external service failure will be dealt with/repaired by AAMC, at no expense to the client. Such parts/external service invoice shall be marked up by 18% over total invoice, including all part costs, shipping, taxes and fees.  AAMC shall retain all original invoices of such parts/external services that exceed $20.00 as invoiced to client for inspection/audit by client upon request.  Minor parts such as nuts, bolts, etc. that are less than $20.00 will not have retained invoices on file for inspection/audit by client.

Payment for services:   Invoice for AAMC services on client vehicle shall be issued either upon completion of project, or weekly on each Friday, and are due and payable upon receipt. Invoices can either be issued electronically (email) or hard copy, depending on mutual agreement with client and Angvick Antique Motors Co.  AAMC will release the vehicle/project to the client upon satisfactory completion of project and receipt of payment in full for all services/parts invoiced.  For ongoing projects, such as restorations which require many weeks or months of work, invoices will be issued each Friday, or intervals mutually agreed to by client and AAMC.  Valid contract requires both signatures below:

Client Signature:_____________________________________________________

Printed Client Name:_______________________________________________________

Angvick Antique Motors Co. Signature:___________________________________________

Printed AAMC representative name:_____________________________________________

 Date:_________________________

Additional Notes:____________________________________________________________

 

By oldmotorsguy

1916 Willys Overland Model 75 Touring – sold

1916 Willys Overland Model 75 Touring car, rust free 100 year old vehicle which spent much of its life in Utah and Texas.  Much has been restored recently and some of the features of this car include:

  • Upholstery
  • Engine – new aluminum pistons,  recent  re-build
  • New Firestone tires and tubes
  • Fresh convertible top
  • Freshly sealed gas tank – lifetime warranty to buyer (non-transferrable)
  • Clear Texas title
DSC_0285The overall condition of the car is very good, with most of the components either in good original condition or restored in the recent past.  The previous owner(s) installed modern fuse box with modern circuit breakers for each circuit on the car, along with a main circuit breaker.  While not original, these improvements to the electrical system make the car more reliable for touring.  Additionally, the original glass windshield was missing, and has been replaced with new safety glass. 
 
The vehicle had a cylinder head gasket leak when I purchased it a few months ago, and I removed the cylinder head to determine the cause.  It was at this time that I noticed the new aluminum pistons which had no carbon build-up, and the honing marks were still visible on the cylinder walls, verifying that the engine had likely just been rebuilt and the rings had not even seated yet. DSC_0290 I would conclude that the car has not been driven since the engine was re-built, and no cylinder head gasket sealer was used on the new copper gasket, which some mechanics swear is the correct way to install these gaskets.  I am a firm believer in Perma-Tex high temperature copper gasket spray, which I applied liberally to both sides of the gasket and re-installed.  It corrected the leak, and the engine runs fine.  
 
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1924 Chevrolet Superior – sold

1924 Chevrolet Superiordsc_0327

I sold this car to a Florida client in mid September, 2016.  I have gotten this 1924 Chevrolet Superior running and took it for a test drive of around 12 miles, and it performed admirably, other than the ancient transmission is very tricky to shift.  I started getting the hang of it towards the end of my test run, and with some stick time I think I would had it down pat.  Up to this point, I had gotten the aesthetics done a few weeks ago and ran it around the block, perhaps half a mile, to see what happened: all the 4 gears worked (reverse and three forward), the brakes were OK and all of the electrics worked, with the exception of the horn button at the top of the steering column – I could not figure out how to extend the wire through the steering column.  Nobody within the Chevrolet antique club had any clue, as none of them had this model, so I simply added a horn button at the bottom of the dash.  The future owner can figure this out, not a deal killer in all likelihood, as the horn works, but just not as originally configured by Chevrolet in 1924.  Additionally, the speedometer does not work, but all of the components are intact and present. Likely the link cable is badly worn, these link components are hard to find, but are out there; it just takes time to track them down.

A few weeks ago, I ran this car on the road for the first time in perhaps 30 years, the engine overheated quickly and it ran poorly, even though I had re-built the engine and carburetor a few weeks before.  I determined that the original radiator needed to be rebuilt along with a poorly re-sealed gas tank which turned the gasoline a red color, and the sample I drew into a clear jar looked like strawberry Gatorade. Both radiator and gas tank were re-done by professional shops (not cheap), and I am confident the way it runs now that these issues are behind me.

dsc_0330

 

  • Engine: This engine is an overhead valve motor, and was one of the earliest overhead valve engines on the market, all other cars of the era continued with the ‘flat head’ configuration (of which your 1916 Overland is a prime example); it was manufactured one year before Chevrolet started putting valve covers over the valve train, and it has exposed rockers, push rods and springs.  You will notice that this engine is gray-green, which was the factory engine color of most of the major car manufacturers of the era to include Willys Overland, Chevrolet,dsc_0336 Dodge Brothers and Oldsmobile along with a few others.  It requires being kept clean, and needs oiling after every 50 miles of operation.  A drop of oil at the hole on the top of each rocker arm, a drop of oil on the rocker arm at the top of each valve stem, and the felt washers need to be saturated with oil.  Yes, a pain under normal circumstances, but considered just part of the driving experience back in the day.  The original oil can is present on the fire wall.  I disassembled the engine down to the crankshaft and felt that it was in relatively decent condition overall.  The cast iron pistons in the car were stamped .003” on the top of each, and I was not able to find .003 rings for it, but rather found .005” NOS oversize rings for it, honed each cylinder to facilitate the new rings to seat properly, and hand filed each ring end down to .003” and hand fitted them so that the compression is now excellent.  I also installed new ignition components, to include spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and hand lapped each valve, adjusted the Babbitt bearings to within .015” clearance on rods and mains, reassembled and it runs very well now.
  • Clutch: The clutch was very grabby on the initial run, as it has a leather lined conical clutch assembly common in the era. I applied liberal amounts of leafsfoot oil to the lining, and now the clutch is much smoother, and will become ever smoother with additional mileage put on the car.
  • Interior: the previous owner (‘grampa’) had installed a professionally done convertible top and genuine leather upholstery, which are in great shape. From my best guess, this was done in the early to mid 1990’s by ‘grampa,’ and when grampa passed at that point of its restoration, the car was kept in a temperature controlled shop (which looked more like a 1930’s era gas station), for approximately the next 20 years, until I purchased the car from the son at grampa’s compound in Columbus, OH. I have all of the restoration photos in an album, which contains more than a hundred photos of every step of the process grampa went through, and it was a frame-off process.
  • Tires: the tires on the car when I purchased it 5 months ago had no mileage on them, but were approx. 20 years old and had age cracks present, so before it would be considered road worthy, I replaced the four tires with new Firestone tires, and kept the best condition original tire as a spare. All are inflated to 50 psi, and with the exception of the minor age cracks in the sidewall of the spare, are good to go.

This car to the casual observer looks much like a Ford Model T (any color you want, as long as it’s black, as ol’ Hank Ford quipped), with the obvious exception of the blue Chevrolet ‘bow tie’ radiator badge.  Unlike the Ford Model T, however, the Chevrolet was built much stronger than the Model T, and could survive a moderately severe crash intact, whereas a Model T would have been completely demolished in a similar impact.  This car is about 18” longer wheel base, larger front and back seat area, and weighs about 500 more pounds than a Model T; all in all a larger, sturdier car, in addition to a faster car, with three forward speeds rather than the Model T’s high and low forward gears only.

Not many Chevrolets have survived from this era, as Chevrolet made much of the interior structure of wood, (of which was all replaced in this car by grampa in the early 1990’s), as most Chevrolets rotted away and were crushed and used for scrap metal in the metal drives of World War II.

 

 

By oldmotorsguy

1911 Ford Model T 3-Passenger Runabout – sold

1911 Ford Model T 3-Passenger Runabout, also called a Roadster with ‘mother-in-law- seat. This 105-year old car has a clear valid State of Wisconsin 1911 vehicle title.  Frame off restoration completed on January 21, 2016.  DSC_0132I purchased this car from a dealer in Minnesota last year, and it was in exceptionally rough shape.  Much of the car was original, and accordingly quite a few components were no longer functional such as the upholstery and other worn out parts.  In order to get this car into road worthy condition, the following were some of the major purchases to restore this car to era-correct and road worthy condition:
 
  • New all white era correct Firestone tires
  • Newly era correct fabricated top irons, bows and top canvas (no top came with the car)
  • New brass carbide headlights and carbide generator (old components were incorrect)
  • New era correct coil box, new era correct ignition switch and 4 freshly rebuilt coils
  • Rebuilt magneto, new piston rings, lapped valves, bearings shimmed to correct tolerance
  • Fresh tufted leather upholstery
  • Newly painted
  • Much era-correct brass added where original brass components were missing
  • 6 volt electrical system installed, with electric starter and generator, carbide headlights converted to 6 volt bulbs along with electric taillight
A previous owner had replaced the original 1911 engine with a Ford Model T engine manufactured in 1919 which allowed addition of a 6 volt generator.  Car has been wired to allow night operation with electric headlights and tail light.  Original E&J side lanterns have not been converted to 6 volt electric operation, and can be filled with lamp oil and lit.
DSC_0133DSC_0137DSC_0139DSC_0140DSC_0146DSC_0150
By oldmotorsguy

1917 Ford Model T Touring – sold

DSC_0045For sale is my recently completed restoration of a 1917 Ford Model T Touring car. This 98 year old antique vehicle was partially restored when I purchased it a few months ago.  The prior owner of the vehicle passed away prior to completion, but had replaced all tires and wooden spokes, and rebuilt the engine with fresh babbitt bearings and had installed a larger Model A crankshaft, Model A piston rods and specialty aluminum .040 oversize pistons with four rings.  
 
This work was accomplished perhaps in the early 2000’s, and then was placed in storage until I purchased it two months ago.  The ‘fresh’ tires now have some minor age cracks, but have virtually zero wear on the treads.  The car had the original top irons included with the sale, but no top or interior upholstery was done.  I installed a new top, new upholstery and new seat springs, new floor mats, and rebuilt era correct coil box, coils and Tiger timer, along with new wiring throughout.  
 
The engine was also never ran up after having been rebuilt, and I disassembled the motor and found that the magneto magnets and coil ring had been removed.  I replaced these components with the correct components which I recharged and reconditioned , and the magneto now produces approximately 11 volts AC at an idle, and around 25 volts AC under normal running RPMs: a very powerful ignition system currently.  It also has a 6 volt battery with generator and electric starter (neither of these components were OEM to the 1917 model year, but are extremely useful when used for touring and daily driving).  I also replaced the piston rings with new specialty rings from Egge Pistons in California, and had honed the cylinders prior to installation. A high compression head has also been added by me to accommodate the increased power from the larger Model A crank and longer compression stroke. The cam has been ground to increase the duration of valve opening, and much larger main bearing caps and bolts/nuts have been installed. A rebuilt Holley NH carburetor has been installed and provides adequate fuel for this 191 cubic inch engine (original block displacement is 177 cubic inches).  All of this engine work and machine work is not visible, and accordingly the only visible alterations to this engine are the addition of the generator and cutout as well as the electric starter, the 1/2″ lower cylinder head, and larger main bearing nuts.  
 
Only an experienced Model T expert will be able to detect any modifications, and to most all others, this car looks to be original.  In other words, it does not appear to be ‘hot rodded’, but it indeed has more power than the original 20 horsepower engine.  My estimate of the current power would be approximately 32 horse power.  To cool engine with this increase in HP, a newly manufactured radiator has been added, and no overheating problems exist currently.
 
This increase in power allows the car to travel at much greater speeds, but the 1917 Touring platform/suspension does not support any speeds beyond 45 miles an hour with stability.  Extreme caution should be exercised in traveling at these higher speeds, and this ‘stroker’ engine is primarily designed to allow the operator to navigate hills without losing as much speed and/or down shifting into low gear.  It also allows much faster time to achieve cruising speed when shifting from low to high gear.  The torque of this more powerful engine is adequate to power through moderate hills with no stress to the engine, and no threat of breaking the much stronger Model A crankshaft, as was a possibility of the weaker original crankshaft.
IMPORTANT NOTE: 1917 authentic Illinois license plates, luggage rack and antique suitcase, bulb horn shown in photos are not included with the car, seller will remove them upon sale to ultimate purchaser prior to shipment. DSC_0057DSC_0064photo 1
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By oldmotorsguy

1971 Triumph TR6 – sold

DSC_00141971 Triumph TR6 convertible with overdrive, restored over the past two years and now recently completed.  I purchased this car nearly two years ago and began what became a significant restoration process.  Much of the car has been either repaired, replaced or otherwise restored to original condition.  It had an electronic ignition unit that I left intact, as it appeared a recent upgrade, and this is virtually the only non-standard functional feature on this car, other than the addition of a J-type electric overdrive unit which is more durable than the original A-type unit.

Improvements, replacements, restorations and repairs include (but are not limited to) the following:

  • Rebuilt engine, to include replacement block (old one was cracked), new standard size rings, rod and main bearings, ground and lapped valves, head resurfaced, new hoses, new 12-volt battery, battery cables and battery blanket
  • New radiator
  • New headlights, chrome headlight rims
  • New door and trunk locks, keys
  • New heater core
  • New custom built 3″ diameter steel dual radius roll bar that does not impede the vision of the driver’s rear-view mirror
  • New fan shroud, fan belts
  • New motor mounts
  • New stainless steel exhaust pipe and stainless steel muffler
  • New carpet
  • New seat upholstery, to include foam and fabric
  • New convertible top along with new vinyl top boot to dress up the looks of the car when the top is down (which should be most of the time)
  • New windshield with seal
  • New red line tires, including spare
  • Rebuilt transmission and added a rebuilt J-type electric overdrive
  • New clutch disc, new throw out bearing, pressure plate resurfaced
  • Rebuilt speedometer
  • Repacked all greased fittings, to include front steering, front wheel bearings, rear CV joints, new rear end gasket, fresh gear oil
  • New hydraulic inline rear shock absorber conversion kit, new front shock absorbers
  • New transmission and driveline PVC tunnel units
  • Fresh ‘signal red’ exterior paint
  • Too many minor components replaced to mention (the restoration file is approx. 2 inches thick with receipts, diagrams,  etc)

While I have endeavored to return this vintage European sports car to original condition, a few minor components may be of slightly different configuration/design, but the intent was to keep it original looking, and I believe I have achieved this goal.  The carburetors have been recently rebuilt by a British car specialist and run very well under all RPM ranges.DSC_0530DSC_0537DSC_0009

By oldmotorsguy

1925 Ford Model T Coupe – sold

1925 Model T Coupe - eBay photos 0221925 Ford Model T Coupe, commonly referred to as a ‘doctor’s coupe’ back in the day, this nice old antique is in excellent condition, recently restored.  

 
I purchased this car several months ago and it was in relatively good condition when I bought it, and appeared to have had an easy existence.  Much of the car is original and virtually rust-free,  several restoration/repair items have been performed to include:
 
  • Engine has been disassembled and gone through for any significant problems.  New rings were installed, valves were lapped and adjusted, bearing clearances were adjusted/shimmed to the specified 15/1000″ clearance, cylinder head was resurfaced, new nickel plated head bolts and copper gasket installed.  When I purchased the car, I discovered that the original 1925 short block was severely cracked and the cylinder head was warped, and was no longer serviceable, and was replaced by a serviceable 1921 era short block and cylinder head.  The original damaged short block has been retained, and can be purchased separately and shipped separately from this eBay listing, please contact seller if the original block is needed for authenticity purposes, and seller can price this damaged block for sale and shipment based on location of the ultimate purchaser.  
  • All tires including spare have virtually zero miles on them, although they were installed at some point in the past by the previous owner(s), and are road ready.  All rims including spare rim have been serviced to insure reliability and all wood spokes have been checked for tightness and re-varnished with 4 coats of spar varnish.
  • New radiator installed
  • Brake light actuated by foot pedal added for safety during operation, was not original equipment
  • All three locks have keys and function as they should: ignition, passenger door and trunk.
  • Coils have been tested, tuned and are functioning perfectly
  • Runs on both battery and magneto
  • Minor upholstery upgrades, although the existing upholstery is in very good condition with no tears or fraying apparent.
  • Fresh trunk liner and carpet installed
  • Door panels re-upholstered
  • All windows adjusted, serviced, lubricated and all 5 moving windows function as they should
  • Carburetor rebuilt
  • Generator cleaned and brushes cleaned and reinstalled for maximum performance1925 Model T Coupe - eBay photos 027
This nicely restored car runs, cools, stops and starts as it should, all systems including headlights, tail light and brake light, map light on dash and generator all function well and it is a reliable touring vehicle, and it does not appear to have excessive mileage on most of the components of the vehicle.  Minor issues include a few oil leaks (standard on all Model T’s), and is equipped with a non-original horn although the horn present is era correct.  Many knowledgeable antique car enthusiasts have insisted that this 1925 model year Ford did not come with cowl mounted oil lanterns as standard equipment.  I researched this issue, and have determined that indeed these functioning oil lamps were standard on all 1925 Model T’s that were not equipped with optional generators.  This car’s lamps are authentic original equipment, and are in excellent working condition, with fresh oil and wicks that are ready to light when needed.  Additional comments have been made by the same knowledgeable enthusiasts regarding the wooden spokes on the standard equipment wheels: Henry Ford had them all painted black.  These spokes were originally painted black, and one of the prior owners took painstaking efforts to remove the paint and stain and varnish the original hickory hardwood.  I personally prefer this look to the standard black paint, and chose to leave them as they are, even though this is not how the factory produced them.  Certainly if this is an issue with any subequent buyer as to originality, these spokes can be repainted black without much problem or cost.
 
Sold on an ‘as is, where is’ basis with bill of sale only and Alabama registration certificate.  I purchased this car from an individual in Alabama who provided the registration document but insisted that no title was issued for cars of this age by the State of Alabama.  Accordingly, no title will be issued with sale, but likely the subsequent buyer will not have an issue registering this car and obtaining a title in states that require such documentation.1925 Model T Coupe - eBay photos 0321925 Model T Coupe - eBay photos 0561925 Model T Coupe - eBay photos 0441925 Model T Coupe - eBay photos 019
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By oldmotorsguy

1935 Chrysler Airstream Touring Sedan – sold

DSC_00201935 Chrysler Airstream Touring Sedan.  This great looking car was restored to near original condition around the late 1980’s or early-to-mid 1990’s.  The gentleman I purchased it from owned it from 1996 and had taken great care of it, using it rarely in parades and a few car club functions.  This older restoration still looks in excellent condition and runs and drives smoothly.  It has an in-line 6 cylinder engine, with a three-speed manual transmission with overdrive.  It appears that a hydraulic brake booster has been added to the brakes, and gives an assist in bringing this 3,050 pound car to a stop without great effort. 

Of significant note, when I parked this car in my wife’s spot in the garage while I worked on some minor mechanical issues after I purchased the car, and after I drove the car to test all of systems, it appears there are absolutely zero fluid leaks: no rear end or oil pan leaks, no anti-freeze, no leaks of any kind were present on the garage floor when I moved the vehicle after about a week of minor maintenance in this one location.  Ordinarily, 80 year old machines almost always leak something, but not this old beauty. 

The previous owner tells me that he had recently spent $1100 on the brakes, and from what I can tell from driving the car, and by the way it stops it appears money well spent.  The engine starts immediately when cold with a manual choke, and warms up quickly.  No noises, unusual vibrations or visible emissions are present, and it runs quietly and smoothly.  All gauges work as they should, and while the speedo works OK, it makes noise at certain speeds. The paint is a lacquer application as was popular in older restoration, and is checking most noticeably on the front passenger door and passenger side hood section, in addition to nicks and scratches in the paint in other areas but it really does not detract from a general excellent appearance overall.  A truly nice looking car that has been superlatively maintained over its lifetime.  There is virtually no rust anywhere, and looking at the undercarriage suggests this car was never run in foul weather, and as of the last 25 years has been a relative trailer queen more than a daily driver.

The following are items that are non-operational, but may disappear from the listing as I am continually working on these items:

  • Turn signal lever has broken off.  Accordingly, I can’t tell if the turn signals work or not, but I am in the process of correcting this.  Turn signals were not OEM to this car. 
  • Heater is not connected to the cooling system. ( IMHO, this car is way too nice to be run in the cold weather anyway, but that’s just me.)
  • AM radio is non-operational, but all the components seem present and intact.
  • The speedometer/cable make noise at certain speeds.
  • Fog lights (aftermarket additions) are non-operational 
  • Rear passenger compartment overhead light is non-operationalDSC_0023DSC_0032DSC_0032DSC_0039
By oldmotorsguy

1924 Ford Model T Roadster – sold

This car is one of the finest restorations I have done to date, I am very proud of this effort.  When I bought it from a car dealer in Cleveland, OH, it had many issues but was amazingly intact and still had many of the original components to include the original top, original seat and original pane windshield plates.  The engine had an annoying tick that I thought might be a simple valve adjustment at the time, but turned into something a bit more complicated: two broken timing gear teeth on the original fiber timing gear.  What I had hoped would be a little minor engine work turned into a rebuild. 007 (2)  009

Additionally, I was hoping I could simply use a lot of rubbing compound and a bucket or two of elbow grease to bring back the shine in what turned out to be original paint, but that effort fell completely flat and I had the car repainted.  The top and upholstery, while original, were entirely worn out and raggedy and accordingly I replaced those components as well, in addtion to another list of parts about as long as my arm.

Included on that list but not a comprehensive list:

  • Repaired torn insulation on about 8 of the 12 coils on the coil ring
  • New rings
  • New exhaust manifold
  • Replaced warped head with reconditioned and milled head, new copper head gasket
  • Lapped and adjusted the valves
  • Replaced the timing gear
  • Adjusted and re-shimmed all bearings
  • Removed the black paint from wheel spokes, stained and varnished
  • Removed old tires and replaced with new white Firestone tires including spare
  • Installed rebuilt carburetor
  • Installed rebuilt generator
  • Repaired faulty ignition coils and coil box
  • Replaced worn original radiator with new radiator
  • Repaired ignition and starter switches
  • Repaired non-operational headlights and installed missing tail light
  • Re-lined parking brakes with new lining and rivets
  • Repacked front Timkin wheel bearings
  • Replaced all hoses and fan belt
  • Removed faulty water pump and returned system to original
  • Replaced interior dash panel that had way too many holes drilled into it, it was completely ruined
  • New interior kick panels
  • New seat upholstery
  • New back seat upholstery
  • New floor mat
  • Repaired original floor boards
  • Repaired original top bow and irons
  • New top

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In the end, this car is a real looker.  I am extremely pleased at how this beautiful car looks now, I am confident the new owner will be extremely pleased with this nice antique automobile.

By oldmotorsguy

1922 Ford Model T Touring – sold

DSC_0045Here are a few photos of a 1922 Ford Model T Touring, purchased about a year ago and kept in storage until recently. The car is most certainly a driver,and  not a show car.  Body is quite rough in places but is intact and original.  Paint was done by an amateur several years ago but is a ‘twenty footer.’  Once warmed up, visible emissions are evident from a fairly well running engine with recent rebuild on carb.  New wiring, new headlight reflectors, relatively new top, upholstery and tires.  A few button caps missing from font seat, some minor damage to the interior fabric of the top, and a very small crack in the corner of one of the windshield panes, but otherwise pretty straight.  Minor oil leaks (what Model T doesn’t), but all in all a good running car.

I had purchased this car in Dayton, Ohio last year and had planned on restoring it to its former glory: rebuild the engine, restore the metal work and body damage, and repaint.  Alas, the car kept slipping to the back burner, and accordingly just sat in my storage facility, racking up storage rental fees onto its cost basis.  After careful consideration, I decided to put it up for sale, and as luck would have it, the former owner in Dayton saw the eBay listing, had missed having it around and bought it back.

ADSC_0057s they say, all’s well that ends well.  I am glad that this nice old car is back home.

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By oldmotorsguy