This nicely restored car has beautiful paint and well appointed interior. The carburetor has been recently rebuilt, and has virtually no rust anywhere. Car is in my storage facility in Dekalb, Illinois currently, and can be viewed via prior arranged appointment.
I recently purchased this car from a private party near Dearborn, Michigan and at the time it was a hand-crank start model; no electric starter. I added the starter, along with rebuilding the magneto and freshened up its look with new Wards Riverside all-white tires, including a side mount spare. This ‘tuxedo’ package gives this all-black car a nice appearance to go with its new top and upholstery.
Also included in this restoration are a new radiator, added battery box and fresh 6-volt battery, rebuilt coil box and freshly rebuilt coils. When I was installing the magneto, I noticed that the former owner had installed fresh aluminum domed high compression pistons, a high compression head and a high volume aluminum intake manifold: instead of the standard 22-horsepower engine, these modifications would generate approximately 28 HP, giving it a real noticeable hill climbing capability and a slightly higher cruising speed ( approx. 42 mph). This car was initially sold in Chehalis, Washington and still retains the dealership tag affixed to the floorboard. Because of the lack of salt on west coast roads, this car has virtually no rust anywhere.
Just recently restored is this beautiful specimen of the last year of the Ford Model A, and this car is the most popular of them all, the deluxe roadster. Purchased in unrestored but complete condition, a frame-off restoration was begun last year in September, and after approximately 500 hours of labor, it is at last finished. Most of the high end costs involved restoration of the stainless steel and chrome original components, an engine rebuild along with new under carriage sheet metal, fresh upholstery, top and white wall tires. The client selected the colors, to include the Vermillion red body, tacoma cream wire wheels and brown and tan upholstery and trunk. On paper, these selections were not the ones I would have chosen initially, but as it turned out it is a stunning look to a popular classic car.
1916 Willys Overland Model 75 Touring car, rust free 100 year old vehicle which spent much of its life in Utah and Texas. Much has been restored recently and some of the features of this car include:
- Engine – new aluminum pistons, recent re-build
- New Firestone tires and tubes
- Fresh convertible top
- Freshly sealed gas tank – lifetime warranty to buyer (non-transferrable)
- Clear Texas title
1924 Chevrolet Superior
I sold this car to a Florida client in mid September, 2016. I have gotten this 1924 Chevrolet Superior running and took it for a test drive of around 12 miles, and it performed admirably, other than the ancient transmission is very tricky to shift. I started getting the hang of it towards the end of my test run, and with some stick time I think I would had it down pat. Up to this point, I had gotten the aesthetics done a few weeks ago and ran it around the block, perhaps half a mile, to see what happened: all the 4 gears worked (reverse and three forward), the brakes were OK and all of the electrics worked, with the exception of the horn button at the top of the steering column – I could not figure out how to extend the wire through the steering column. Nobody within the Chevrolet antique club had any clue, as none of them had this model, so I simply added a horn button at the bottom of the dash. The future owner can figure this out, not a deal killer in all likelihood, as the horn works, but just not as originally configured by Chevrolet in 1924. Additionally, the speedometer does not work, but all of the components are intact and present. Likely the link cable is badly worn, these link components are hard to find, but are out there; it just takes time to track them down.
A few weeks ago, I ran this car on the road for the first time in perhaps 30 years, the engine overheated quickly and it ran poorly, even though I had re-built the engine and carburetor a few weeks before. I determined that the original radiator needed to be rebuilt along with a poorly re-sealed gas tank which turned the gasoline a red color, and the sample I drew into a clear jar looked like strawberry Gatorade. Both radiator and gas tank were re-done by professional shops (not cheap), and I am confident the way it runs now that these issues are behind me.
- Engine: This engine is an overhead valve motor, and was one of the earliest overhead valve engines on the market, all other cars of the era continued with the ‘flat head’ configuration (of which your 1916 Overland is a prime example); it was manufactured one year before Chevrolet started putting valve covers over the valve train, and it has exposed rockers, push rods and springs. You will notice that this engine is gray-green, which was the factory engine color of most of the major car manufacturers of the era to include Willys Overland, Chevrolet, Dodge Brothers and Oldsmobile along with a few others. It requires being kept clean, and needs oiling after every 50 miles of operation. A drop of oil at the hole on the top of each rocker arm, a drop of oil on the rocker arm at the top of each valve stem, and the felt washers need to be saturated with oil. Yes, a pain under normal circumstances, but considered just part of the driving experience back in the day. The original oil can is present on the fire wall. I disassembled the engine down to the crankshaft and felt that it was in relatively decent condition overall. The cast iron pistons in the car were stamped .003” on the top of each, and I was not able to find .003 rings for it, but rather found .005” NOS oversize rings for it, honed each cylinder to facilitate the new rings to seat properly, and hand filed each ring end down to .003” and hand fitted them so that the compression is now excellent. I also installed new ignition components, to include spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and hand lapped each valve, adjusted the Babbitt bearings to within .015” clearance on rods and mains, reassembled and it runs very well now.
- Clutch: The clutch was very grabby on the initial run, as it has a leather lined conical clutch assembly common in the era. I applied liberal amounts of leafsfoot oil to the lining, and now the clutch is much smoother, and will become ever smoother with additional mileage put on the car.
- Interior: the previous owner (‘grampa’) had installed a professionally done convertible top and genuine leather upholstery, which are in great shape. From my best guess, this was done in the early to mid 1990’s by ‘grampa,’ and when grampa passed at that point of its restoration, the car was kept in a temperature controlled shop (which looked more like a 1930’s era gas station), for approximately the next 20 years, until I purchased the car from the son at grampa’s compound in Columbus, OH. I have all of the restoration photos in an album, which contains more than a hundred photos of every step of the process grampa went through, and it was a frame-off process.
- Tires: the tires on the car when I purchased it 5 months ago had no mileage on them, but were approx. 20 years old and had age cracks present, so before it would be considered road worthy, I replaced the four tires with new Firestone tires, and kept the best condition original tire as a spare. All are inflated to 50 psi, and with the exception of the minor age cracks in the sidewall of the spare, are good to go.
This car to the casual observer looks much like a Ford Model T (any color you want, as long as it’s black, as ol’ Hank Ford quipped), with the obvious exception of the blue Chevrolet ‘bow tie’ radiator badge. Unlike the Ford Model T, however, the Chevrolet was built much stronger than the Model T, and could survive a moderately severe crash intact, whereas a Model T would have been completely demolished in a similar impact. This car is about 18” longer wheel base, larger front and back seat area, and weighs about 500 more pounds than a Model T; all in all a larger, sturdier car, in addition to a faster car, with three forward speeds rather than the Model T’s high and low forward gears only.
Not many Chevrolets have survived from this era, as Chevrolet made much of the interior structure of wood, (of which was all replaced in this car by grampa in the early 1990’s), as most Chevrolets rotted away and were crushed and used for scrap metal in the metal drives of World War II.
1911 Ford Model T 3-Passenger Runabout, also called a Roadster with ‘mother-in-law- seat. This 105-year old car has a clear valid State of Wisconsin 1911 vehicle title. Frame off restoration completed on January 21, 2016. I purchased this car from a dealer in Minnesota last year, and it was in exceptionally rough shape. Much of the car was original, and accordingly quite a few components were no longer functional such as the upholstery and other worn out parts. In order to get this car into road worthy condition, the following were some of the major purchases to restore this car to era-correct and road worthy condition:
A previous owner had replaced the original 1911 engine with a Ford Model T engine manufactured in 1919 which allowed addition of a 6 volt generator. Car has been wired to allow night operation with electric headlights and tail light. Original E&J side lanterns have not been converted to 6 volt electric operation, and can be filled with lamp oil and lit.
1971 Triumph TR6 convertible with overdrive, restored over the past two years and now recently completed. I purchased this car nearly two years ago and began what became a significant restoration process. Much of the car has been either repaired, replaced or otherwise restored to original condition. It had an electronic ignition unit that I left intact, as it appeared a recent upgrade, and this is virtually the only non-standard functional feature on this car, other than the addition of a J-type electric overdrive unit which is more durable than the original A-type unit.
Improvements, replacements, restorations and repairs include (but are not limited to) the following:
- Rebuilt engine, to include replacement block (old one was cracked), new standard size rings, rod and main bearings, ground and lapped valves, head resurfaced, new hoses, new 12-volt battery, battery cables and battery blanket
- New radiator
- New headlights, chrome headlight rims
- New door and trunk locks, keys
- New heater core
- New custom built 3″ diameter steel dual radius roll bar that does not impede the vision of the driver’s rear-view mirror
- New fan shroud, fan belts
- New motor mounts
- New stainless steel exhaust pipe and stainless steel muffler
- New carpet
- New seat upholstery, to include foam and fabric
- New convertible top along with new vinyl top boot to dress up the looks of the car when the top is down (which should be most of the time)
- New windshield with seal
- New red line tires, including spare
- Rebuilt transmission and added a rebuilt J-type electric overdrive
- New clutch disc, new throw out bearing, pressure plate resurfaced
- Rebuilt speedometer
- Repacked all greased fittings, to include front steering, front wheel bearings, rear CV joints, new rear end gasket, fresh gear oil
- New hydraulic inline rear shock absorber conversion kit, new front shock absorbers
- New transmission and driveline PVC tunnel units
- Fresh ‘signal red’ exterior paint
- Too many minor components replaced to mention (the restoration file is approx. 2 inches thick with receipts, diagrams, etc)
While I have endeavored to return this vintage European sports car to original condition, a few minor components may be of slightly different configuration/design, but the intent was to keep it original looking, and I believe I have achieved this goal. The carburetors have been recently rebuilt by a British car specialist and run very well under all RPM ranges.
- Engine has been disassembled and gone through for any significant problems. New rings were installed, valves were lapped and adjusted, bearing clearances were adjusted/shimmed to the specified 15/1000″ clearance, cylinder head was resurfaced, new nickel plated head bolts and copper gasket installed. When I purchased the car, I discovered that the original 1925 short block was severely cracked and the cylinder head was warped, and was no longer serviceable, and was replaced by a serviceable 1921 era short block and cylinder head. The original damaged short block has been retained, and can be purchased separately and shipped separately from this eBay listing, please contact seller if the original block is needed for authenticity purposes, and seller can price this damaged block for sale and shipment based on location of the ultimate purchaser.
- All tires including spare have virtually zero miles on them, although they were installed at some point in the past by the previous owner(s), and are road ready. All rims including spare rim have been serviced to insure reliability and all wood spokes have been checked for tightness and re-varnished with 4 coats of spar varnish.
- New radiator installed
- Brake light actuated by foot pedal added for safety during operation, was not original equipment
- All three locks have keys and function as they should: ignition, passenger door and trunk.
- Coils have been tested, tuned and are functioning perfectly
- Runs on both battery and magneto
- Minor upholstery upgrades, although the existing upholstery is in very good condition with no tears or fraying apparent.
- Fresh trunk liner and carpet installed
- Door panels re-upholstered
- All windows adjusted, serviced, lubricated and all 5 moving windows function as they should
- Carburetor rebuilt
- Generator cleaned and brushes cleaned and reinstalled for maximum performance
1935 Chrysler Airstream Touring Sedan. This great looking car was restored to near original condition around the late 1980’s or early-to-mid 1990’s. The gentleman I purchased it from owned it from 1996 and had taken great care of it, using it rarely in parades and a few car club functions. This older restoration still looks in excellent condition and runs and drives smoothly. It has an in-line 6 cylinder engine, with a three-speed manual transmission with overdrive. It appears that a hydraulic brake booster has been added to the brakes, and gives an assist in bringing this 3,050 pound car to a stop without great effort.
Of significant note, when I parked this car in my wife’s spot in the garage while I worked on some minor mechanical issues after I purchased the car, and after I drove the car to test all of systems, it appears there are absolutely zero fluid leaks: no rear end or oil pan leaks, no anti-freeze, no leaks of any kind were present on the garage floor when I moved the vehicle after about a week of minor maintenance in this one location. Ordinarily, 80 year old machines almost always leak something, but not this old beauty.
The previous owner tells me that he had recently spent $1100 on the brakes, and from what I can tell from driving the car, and by the way it stops it appears money well spent. The engine starts immediately when cold with a manual choke, and warms up quickly. No noises, unusual vibrations or visible emissions are present, and it runs quietly and smoothly. All gauges work as they should, and while the speedo works OK, it makes noise at certain speeds. The paint is a lacquer application as was popular in older restoration, and is checking most noticeably on the front passenger door and passenger side hood section, in addition to nicks and scratches in the paint in other areas but it really does not detract from a general excellent appearance overall. A truly nice looking car that has been superlatively maintained over its lifetime. There is virtually no rust anywhere, and looking at the undercarriage suggests this car was never run in foul weather, and as of the last 25 years has been a relative trailer queen more than a daily driver.
The following are items that are non-operational, but may disappear from the listing as I am continually working on these items:
- Turn signal lever has broken off. Accordingly, I can’t tell if the turn signals work or not, but I am in the process of correcting this. Turn signals were not OEM to this car.
- Heater is not connected to the cooling system. ( IMHO, this car is way too nice to be run in the cold weather anyway, but that’s just me.)
- AM radio is non-operational, but all the components seem present and intact.
- The speedometer/cable make noise at certain speeds.
- Fog lights (aftermarket additions) are non-operational
- Rear passenger compartment overhead light is non-operational