1924 Ford Model T Roadster – sold

This car is one of the finest restorations I have done to date, I am very proud of this effort.  When I bought it from a car dealer in Cleveland, OH, it had many issues but was amazingly intact and still had many of the original components to include the original top, original seat and original pane windshield plates.  The engine had an annoying tick that I thought might be a simple valve adjustment at the time, but turned into something a bit more complicated: two broken timing gear teeth on the original fiber timing gear.  What I had hoped would be a little minor engine work turned into a rebuild. 007 (2)  009

Additionally, I was hoping I could simply use a lot of rubbing compound and a bucket or two of elbow grease to bring back the shine in what turned out to be original paint, but that effort fell completely flat and I had the car repainted.  The top and upholstery, while original, were entirely worn out and raggedy and accordingly I replaced those components as well, in addtion to another list of parts about as long as my arm.

Included on that list but not a comprehensive list:

  • Repaired torn insulation on about 8 of the 12 coils on the coil ring
  • New rings
  • New exhaust manifold
  • Replaced warped head with reconditioned and milled head, new copper head gasket
  • Lapped and adjusted the valves
  • Replaced the timing gear
  • Adjusted and re-shimmed all bearings
  • Removed the black paint from wheel spokes, stained and varnished
  • Removed old tires and replaced with new white Firestone tires including spare
  • Installed rebuilt carburetor
  • Installed rebuilt generator
  • Repaired faulty ignition coils and coil box
  • Replaced worn original radiator with new radiator
  • Repaired ignition and starter switches
  • Repaired non-operational headlights and installed missing tail light
  • Re-lined parking brakes with new lining and rivets
  • Repacked front Timkin wheel bearings
  • Replaced all hoses and fan belt
  • Removed faulty water pump and returned system to original
  • Replaced interior dash panel that had way too many holes drilled into it, it was completely ruined
  • New interior kick panels
  • New seat upholstery
  • New back seat upholstery
  • New floor mat
  • Repaired original floor boards
  • Repaired original top bow and irons
  • New top

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In the end, this car is a real looker.  I am extremely pleased at how this beautiful car looks now, I am confident the new owner will be extremely pleased with this nice antique automobile.

By oldmotorsguy

1922 Ford Model T Touring – sold

DSC_0045Here are a few photos of a 1922 Ford Model T Touring, purchased about a year ago and kept in storage until recently. The car is most certainly a driver,and  not a show car.  Body is quite rough in places but is intact and original.  Paint was done by an amateur several years ago but is a ‘twenty footer.’  Once warmed up, visible emissions are evident from a fairly well running engine with recent rebuild on carb.  New wiring, new headlight reflectors, relatively new top, upholstery and tires.  A few button caps missing from font seat, some minor damage to the interior fabric of the top, and a very small crack in the corner of one of the windshield panes, but otherwise pretty straight.  Minor oil leaks (what Model T doesn’t), but all in all a good running car.

I had purchased this car in Dayton, Ohio last year and had planned on restoring it to its former glory: rebuild the engine, restore the metal work and body damage, and repaint.  Alas, the car kept slipping to the back burner, and accordingly just sat in my storage facility, racking up storage rental fees onto its cost basis.  After careful consideration, I decided to put it up for sale, and as luck would have it, the former owner in Dayton saw the eBay listing, had missed having it around and bought it back.

ADSC_0057s they say, all’s well that ends well.  I am glad that this nice old car is back home.

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By oldmotorsguy

1917 Ford Model T Touring – sold

This 99 year old beauty has truly led a sheltered life, and I am confident the new owner will be pleased with this outstanding restoration of a 1917 Ford Model T Touring car.  I purchased it from a party in Connecticut after “Grampa” died and the son bought it from Grampa’s estate and put it up for sale.  Grampa did very well as a custodian of this car, as there was virtually zero rust, and nearly all of the common components missing on similar century old vehicles were still present on this one: the original nickel plated hubcaps are intact, and not banged, dinged and scratched owing to these being the widest point of the car.1917 Ford Model T Touring - completed Jan 2015 007

Additionally, Grampa had begun a restoration that was very well done, to include a new cobra skin era correct top on the original top irons, and a nicely installed new upholstery kit in era correct vinyl.  A new radiator was also a welcome surprise when I received the car after only viewing photos of it while in storage.  All in all, a very nice car even before I started the restoration process.

The only issue I had with this 99 year old car (manufactured in September, 1916, so not quite 99 years old but close enough) was that all of Henry Ford’s cars came without an electric starter prior to 1919.  Accordingly, the tried and true method of hand cranking the car from the front was the only way to start this car, and I did get it started in this fashion a few times and decided that an electric start is essentially mandatory.

I began the process of installing a starter, and the process was much more involved than simply saying ‘add a starter to it.’  Basically, the transmission cover which accepts a starter mount had to be installed, as well as a replacement transmission that already had a starter ring gear mounted on the flywheel.  Rather than try and drill out the old flywheel to accept a ring gear, I replaced the entire transmission with what appeared to be a 1925-era Model T transmission with everything I needed already good to go.  That, and finding a good condition starter, rebuilding the Bendix, changing out a few of the linkage components to accommodate a later tranny, and a rather involved list of other minor little tasks made this ‘just add a starter’ statement about a three week project.   A major headache that I had not planned for was that the replacement transmission’s magneto was exceptionally weak, only producing about 3 volts.  I had to rebuild this magneto and recharge all 16 “V” magnets, verify that all 16 coils mounted on the coil ring were solid, and then get the clearances between the spinning magnet clamps and the coil surfaces to within a tolerance of between .025″ and .040″ – a very trying process.  But in the end, this magneto now generates all the spark that this old car will ever need.

1917 Ford Model T Touring - completed Jan 2015 003

 

Since these cars never had starters in the first place, I decided to discreetly mount a starter button that was wired discreetly to a 6 volt solenoid mounted to where the starter button would have been on a 1919 model and later.  The starter button is visible in one of the photos, but I will let the ultimate owner find it first before I point it out.  It’s there, but not readily visible.

 

Much more mechanical work was also involved in the nearly frame off restoration of the car (but the body never came off the frame), and it turned out relatively well.  I am very pleased at how this project flowed, as it was the first time I have attempted to upgrade a car to accommodate an electric starter.  It was a good experience having done this for the first time.   The only down side on this particular project was the weather: it has been exceptionally cold for the last month, and there’s just too much salt on the roads for my likes to take this car out and put a few hundred road miles on it to ‘break it in’ (remember having to do that to cars back in the day?).  In order to seat the newly installed piston rings and freshly lapped valves, the best I could do was put it through its paces on jackstands, and run the car for a few hours inside my nice, heated garage.  I simply could not stand to contemplate getting all of that Chicago salt all over it, as it appears none of the prior stewards of this car did that, and I was not going to be the first.

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By oldmotorsguy

1924 Ford Model TT – one ton tanker truck – sold

1924 Ford Model TT tanker eBay photos 0031924 Ford Model TT one ton tanker truck, great condition, runs excellent, with Ruckstell rear end along with standard Model T planetary transmission.

 
When I purchased this truck, it arrived in good condition as it appeared from 10 feet, but upon close and thorough mechanical inspection, a great many undisclosed problems, shortcomings, missing major components and shoddy workmanship were discovered.  I have subsequently corrected these problems, and since my purchase in October 2014, I have performed the following on this truck:
 
  • Removed the old leaking carburetor and installed a freshly rebuilt NH carburetor
  • Most of the electrical wiring has been replaced, to include lights, timer, ignition.  The horn wires and battery to starter cable was in good shape and was not replaced. None of the headlights or tail lights were hooked up, and many parts were missing from the lighting system, all shortcomings in the light system have been rectified.
  • The emergency brake shoes and linkages were missing, I replaced the entire emergency brake system to include shoes, pads, linkages.
  • The truck had an inferior distributor and coil conversion, I removed this system and returned it to original rebuilt buzz coils and new ignition timer and ignition wires.
  • The ignition was jerry rigged by an amatuer mechanic to run the engine only if the lights were turned on with a jump wire,  since no ignition key was sold with the vehicle.  I obtained the correct key, and returned the ignition to standard Ford configuration.
  • The truck was missing the hood and both doors, I installed new hood and installed new wood doors with original-type Model T hardware.
  • The leaking and corroded exhaust system was replaced, including the manifold, exhaust pipe, tail pipe and muffler.
  • The existing slipshod floorboards were replaced with correctly configured plywood and poplar materials.
  • The driveshaft pulley was terribly bent and out of balance, and was replaced.
  • A small 15″ wooden poorly functioning aftermarket steering wheel was replaced with the original Fordite steering wheel, and the wobbly steering column was reinforced for improved stability.
The previous owner claimed the following:
  • New tires and tubes was claimed.  I found some minor age cracks in the rear tires, but virtually no wear on them, and the front tires appear to have no wear, either.  While these tires are not new, they have exceedingly low mileage if any mileage at all on them.
  • Good front end was claimed.  I discovered some movement in the tie rod bushings, but it shouldn’t significantly impede the functioning of the front suspension system.
  • Rebuilt engine with new babbitt bearings was claimed.  I did not disassemble the engine to verify this, but when I ran it during my inspection it ran perfectly, with no noises, vibrations or visible emissions.  I am pleased with the condition of the engine, and have no reason to doubt that it has been rebuilt with very little wear since its rebuild.
  • The magneto was claimed to have been removed.  I verified that there is no magneto function.

The tank on the back is divided into three sections, with no valves at the bottom of each.  Upon inspection, each tank has apparently been out of commission for an extended period, and all three sections would require sealing and valve installation prior to use.  Since this vehicle is 90 years old, I would suspect that its days of hauling 300 gallons of oil/gas are well behind it, and I would not recommend trying to press this vehicle back into service unless the tanks have been completely redone, the leaf springs replaced and the wheel hubs replaced and wooden wheel spokes replaced at a minimum.  My best guess as to its current capacity would be perhaps using only one of the three sections, or no more than 150 gallons, max.  

 
I discovered upon inspection a metal plaque indicating that this truck was at one time part of a truck fleet owned by Sinclair Refining Company.  Although this could not be historically verified, all evidence present on the truck including the era correct tank suggests that it is entirely possible that this truck was original commissioned as a fuel hauler.  Accordingly, I took the liberty in ordering Sinclair Dino gasoline decals for the tank.  Although the decal itself was not available until 1934, recall that this would have been during the depths of the Great Depression, and rather than many companies ordering new 1930’s Ford Model AA vehicles,  it was exceedingly common that a truck fleet of 10 years old as this one would have been at the time was kept in service.  
 
IMPORTANT NOTE: I purchased this truck from an individual in Oklahoma and received a notarized bill of sale along with an Oklahoma title that had been filled in by the guy I bought it from as the new owner, but this individual never processed the title into his name.  The eventual buyer needs to be aware that the title is in the name of two prior owners ago (including me), has been signed over to the last buyer, who subsequently provided me this unprocessed OK title along with a notarized bill of sale.  UPON SALE, ONLY BILL OF SALE AND EXISTING OKLAHOMA TITLE WILL BE PROVIDED TO BUYER. IT WILL BE ENTIRELY THE SOLE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE ULTIMATE BUYER TO PROCESS THESE EXISTING DOCUMENTS FOR TITLING PURPOSES.  NO OTHER DOCUMENTS ARE AVAILABLE, AND NONE WILL BE PROVIDED OTHER THAN THESE TWO MENTIONED HERE.

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By oldmotorsguy

1926 Ford Model T Touring – Sold

1926 Ford Model T Touring car, runs and looks great, sold in August, 2014.  Everything is functional that should be, to include:

1926 Ford Model T Touring - eBay photos 018
  • Runs very well on both battery and magneto
  • Generator charges at approx. 7-8 amps when running according to the working ammeter
  • Foot starter button easily engages the 6-volt starter, but also starts with hand crank in front
  • Low/high forward speeds and reverse work as they should
  • Convertible top folds up and down and can be done by one person ( it is called a ‘one man top’ but one woman can do it as well).
  • Radiator cools nicely, and uses no water pump (only Henry Ford’s preferred ‘thermosiphoning’ at work)
  • Fully inflated and functional spare tire with reconditioned split rim
  • All tires are relatively fresh (one is brand new), with no age cracks.  The spare has slight age cracks, but is a very solid tire with lots of tread left
  • Have run the car up to 42 mph, as measured by GPS.  It cruises nicely in high gear at approx. 35 mph, but will certainly go faster.
Clear title in my name Many new or nearly new components, to include:
 
New radiator with new dog bone and motometer – high version
New top, side curtains and top irons
New or nearly new tires and tubes
New upholstery and door/kick panels
Reconditioned coils
New lighting wiring harness and timer to coil wiring harness
 
Items of ‘interest,’ problems or issues:
 
Radiator shell: the car comes with two 1926 all-brass radiator shells (see photos), and as the photos show, the car currently sports a gloss black radiator shell.  I had intended to nickel plate one of them, and simply paint the other black so that the car could be driven while the work was done on the plating.  I chose the rougher unit as the one to plate, since the plating company was going to do the brazing repairs, dent repairs and polishing prior to the plating, and I thought that the better condition shell would look better painted in the interim.  The plating company originally promised me to have the radiator shell done in ‘six to eight weeks.’  Wow, I thought at the time, that’s really a long time to wait, but I agreed to this turnaround time.  When 6 weeks had elapsed, I went back to the plating company to see how things were coming, and they told me that they had only just removed the old nickel plating, and had yet to do any of the repairs. “It’ll be another month, maybe more, and it will cost you more than we originally quoted you.”  That, and other local plating companies are two months or more lead time as well to effect this work.   I asked them to just give me my unfinished radiator shell back at that time.  It is still in need of plating, but some work has been done on it.  If the ultimate buyer wants to return the car’s appearance to original, then this shell needs nickel plating and perhaps a plating company near you can complete this task in a more timely manner than any plating companies here in the Chicagoland area.  I would sincerely hope so.
 
Paint: the paint job on the car is OK, and does not really detract from the general appearance, but it has imperfections here and there.
 
Oil leaks.  Virtually all Model T’s leak oil, and especially around the ‘hogshead’ in spots, but this is all part of the fun of owning a Model T. 
 
NOT INCLUDED: photos show this Model T equipped with an antique bulb horn (not included with sale), an accordian-style running board luggage rack (not included with sale) and an antique piece of leather luggage (also not included with sale).  These three items will be removed prior to buyer taking possession of the car. 
1926 Ford Model T Touring - eBay photos 0151926 Ford Model T Touring - eBay photos 0171926 Ford Model T Touring - eBay photos 0301926 Ford Model T Touring - eBay photos 036
By oldmotorsguy

1972 Volkswagen Super Beetle convertible – sold August 2014

This car is currently fresh off of my restoration efforts, and is not a bad looking car given that it is now 42 years old.  I purchased this car from a party in Colorado, and when I repaired/replaced the following:

  • New convertible top with headliner
  • New exhaust sytem
  • New heater system, including all new heater boxes, ducts, cables, vents, and an upgraded heat blower detailed below
  • New shock absorbers
  • New interior and trunk carpeting
  • New horn
  • New upgraded winshield washer pump detailed below
  • Newly installed engine dress up kit, including valve covers, fan shroud and more.
  • Fresh tune up kit, including points, condensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor and cap
  • Fresh gas filters, new gas lines, air filters and oil change
  • New windshield wipers
  • New trunk and engine cover seals
  • Fresh low profile directional Nanking tires, with new spare and new spare rim with new lug wrench
  • New door seals
  • Replaced both floor pans, seal coated fresh metal and surrounds
  • Too many other minor parts to comprehensively list

They say German engineering is the finest in the world, but there were a few systems on this Beetle that were flat out drawing board failures, and I chose to fix them, namely:

1.  Heater system.  The original heating system on these bugs were infamous for their poor performance straight off the show room floor, they never worked very well at all, especially the defroster.  The engine fan was designed primarily to cool the air cooled engine, and perhaps 20% of the air movement was directed to the heating system when the heater lever was engaged.  Since this forced air had to travel over 10 feet from the fan to the dash board, almost no air reached the windshield.  To correct this, I purchased two Detmar 12 volt in line fans and mounted them inbetween the heat exchangers and the rear heater vents.  When engaged, these blowers which came off of a Roush Racing team NASCAR race car (used by Roush to cool brake linings) increase the forced heated air flow to the interior of the car and especially to the windshield perhaps as much as 500%.  In fact, they heated the car so well, I had to install a rheostat to enable the driver to reduce the fan speeds of these blowers so that the car did not get too hot: something NEVER before said about a convertible beetle, ever in their 70 year history.

2.   Windshield washer system.  The factory system had the spare tire providing air pressure to the washer fluid reservoir, and pressurized tubing was plumbed from the reservoir up to the windshield wiper activator, and from there to the hood nozzle.  Any failure along any of these fittings, from spare tire to reservoir to activator would depressurize the entire system and leave the Beetle with no windshield washer and a flat spare tire.  Terrible engineering, bound to failure at any number of points in the system.  Rube Goldberg could have engineered a better (and likely more entertaining) system, and it would have had the same reliability as the original: meaning poor at best.  To remedy this unreliable system, I simply purchased a new washer pump designed for a 1980’s Toyota Celica, mounted it at the bottom of the reservoir, lead the 12 volt wiring to a button under the dash, and problems solved, chance of failure of this system almost zero.
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1977 GMC Sierra pick up truck – SOLD

Recently sold to an international party, this 1977 GMC Sierra 1500 stepside pickup truck was originally purchased in Arizona, is rust free and relatively low mileage (81,965 original miles).

 
Garage kept for last 20 years in the Chicago area (at least), has not been driven in rain or snow since older restoration (perhaps 25 years ago).  Transmission was just rebuilt ($2,000) less than 100 miles ago, engine rebuilt approx. 6,000 miles ago.  Owner indicated that the engine when rebuilt had oversize pistons installed, but did not remember what size they were bored to at the time he purchased the truck.  The large 454 Chevrolet Big Block V-8 engine has power to spare, and can burn off the relatively low mileage tires easily if you don’t ease up on the pedal.
The truck was painted perhaps 10 years ago or more, but still retains a great shine.  Only two very tiny chips in an otherwise nearly perfect paint job, this truck with a little detailing could be almost show quality.   
Everything works, to include factory air conditioning, this excellently maintained truck needs virtually nothing, either mechanically or aesthetically.
 
Excellent running and looking truck.
 
 Dwayne eBay vehciles GMC Kubota 003 Dwayne eBay vehciles GMC Kubota 004 Dwayne eBay vehciles GMC Kubota 007 Dwayne eBay vehciles GMC Kubota 005 Dwayne eBay vehciles GMC Kubota 001 Dwayne eBay vehciles GMC Kubota 008 Dwayne eBay vehciles GMC Kubota 009 Dwayne eBay vehciles GMC Kubota 012
By oldmotorsguy

1919 Ford Model T Touring

SOLD – 1919 Ford Model T Touring.  This car was dubbed “Cynthia”1185 by my daughter, but more aptly named ‘Barney’ by me, since most of its life to date has been spent in a barn or two.  I started with a pretty rough looking car with rough sheet metal simply wired to the frame, no seats, top irons and the wrong size radiator (high instead of low), but whose engine was rebuilt but never run in the early 1970s by two owners ago.  I obtained this car from a party in Minnesota who bought it from the heir of the rebuilder in 2011, and have been working part 1919 Model T - further progress 001time to assemble this car back to its former glory.  Primary work to date includes much new body wood, new front and rear heel panels, new  Ford logo floor mats, reconditioned gas tank, new sediment bulb and gas lines, new brake lining, new splash aprons, new safety glass, new radiator and radiator hoses, refurbished oil lanterns,  recondtioined electrical igntion system to include (4) coils and dash panel by Bob Stauffer of Shaumburg, Illinois.  Also added were new Firestone tires and tubes, new Kevlar transmission band linings, new motometer with dogbone, new cowl and radiator lacing, rebuilt rear end, reconditioned spare tire rack and spare tire with tube and vinyl Ford logo cover, rebuilt front end, new hubcaps, new floor boards, new wiring, new front and rear upholstery including kick panels, new top irons and top and fresh gloss black paint, although the paint job is not quite up to Pebble Beach showroom standards.  At least it’s black and shiney, like Henry Ford liked it.

1919 Model T Ford - Barney in progress 0011919 Model T with top bows 002

Completion date: April 29, 1919 Ford Model T - Barney in black 005 2013.

NOT INCLUDED with sale: luggage rack and antique leather luggage, 1919 Illinois license plate, side bulb horn

By oldmotorsguy

1974 Triumph TR6 – sold

This car was only with me for a short time, but turned into a real looker once I finished, and was sold on eBay to a buyer in Italy.  Upgrades that were effected include:

  • New cloth top
  • Fresh battery
  • New seat belts
  • Spot paint on minor body blemishes016

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1908 REO Runabout Model B – sold

1908 REO Model B Runabout

This spectacular specimen of Ransom Eli Olds’ second attempt at car manufacturing with his new company, REO Motor Car Company, following his abrupt departure owing to irreconcilable differences with the management of his first company in 1904 (Oldsmobile), is nearly 100% original as built in the fourth year of production, with the first REO’s available in 1905.  

After it had been driven into a Milwaukee, Wisconsin collector’s garage in 1992, this car sat for another 19 years before I bought it in fairly poor condition and began the restoration process around the first of June, 2011.  Most notably, much of the wood on this car was in profoundly poor condition, but the seat tub and seat pedestal, engine cover and 45 degree angled floor board were salvageable.  The firewall, running boards and horizontal floorboards were warped and delaminated beyond restoration, and had to be replaced.

The first task was to get the car rolling, as the existing tires were destroyed during its storage and were cracked, flat and rock solid.  I had to cut them off with a hacksaw, and I repainted the snap rings, rims and spokes along with the hubs, and ordered new 28” x 3” tires.  The front wheel bearings looked good, and I repacked those along with the rear roller sleeve bearings.  Once I mounted the newly refurbished wheels onto the frame, I could move the car around more easily in the process of the refurbishment.

The next step was to remove the fenders from the running boards and frame, and take all of the sheet metal to a local body shop to be repaired and painted ‘Torch Red,’ a GM color that makes the car stand out significantly.  I also used the old warped running boards as patterns to construct new oak running boards, and the brass edge trim was salvageable from the old boards and I polished and reattached these trim pieces to the new running boards.  The original frame was painted a flat red, although it may have been gloss red back in its day, and had simply faded over the 100 years, I am not certain nor are any of my resources from the various antique car clubs of which I am a member.  I have subsequently repainted the frame black, as a few of these cars had black frames originally.

The wood seat pedestal had a significant crack along the shift handle side, owing to its structural stress of the handle attached to the wood panel itself, and I had to reinforce the inside of the pedestal and repaint the pedestal in black.  The original white stenciled REO logo was barely apparent, and I replaced this with a gold REO decal along with the front brass REO radiator emblem.   The car had nothing on the rear deck nor any top irons or bows, and accordingly I fabricated a ‘mother-in-law’ fold down seat using an early original yet deteriorated seat as a pattern.

The top brackets were still present in the original seat, as were the seat springs and seat tub.  All were refurbished with new leather upholstery and gloss black paint.    I fabricated the top bows myself, and had the new irons and bows upholstered in Stay-fast canvas, in addition to obtaining front leather straps from an antique car dealer locally.  These straps were original equipment on the 1909 Ford Model T Touring and Roadster, but fit perfectly with the 1908 REO application.

The original coil box was in rough condition, but I had it reconditioned by a retired Motorola electrical enginerr currently living in  Schaumburg, Illinois along with a carburetor cleaning and reconditioned cork float.  The original oiler needed cleaning and polishing, but worked perfectly in providing approximately 12 drips per minute as recommended by the owners manual, of which I have a partial copy. The original starting handle was missing when I purchased the car, and I had a working replica manufactured along with a running board mounted support bracket, and the engine started and ran very well with very little effort.

The running gear seemed somewhat worn, but serviceable, and I did not replace any of these components with the exception of the brake linings, which were brittle and worn out.  The original reverse and first gear linings are still in place, as well as the drive chain, rear end, original axles, hubs and axle support rods.

The original battery box secured to the passenger (left side) running board was in poor condition, and was missing the top.  I was able to recondition the batter box, and fabricated a wooden top and secured it with a leather strap.  The original battery box cover was metal, but after a fruitless six month search for an original replacement, I gave up the search and made one using various photos of the original to go by.  The original 1908 REO had two banks of six 1.5 volt batteries aligned in two circuits (A&B), and I replaced this configuration with two 6V batteries, each on a separate circuit and controlled by the coil box switch on the firewall.  Since the spark plug is the only electrical device on the car requiring an electrical current, each battery can supply approximately 30 hours of running power before switching to the other circuit is required.  Once both batteries are run down, a simple 6V electrical charger can recharge each battery with little effort.

  • This car was equipped with a single cylinder, 8 horsepower gasoline engine.  In starting the engine, a compression relief valve was installed with a small pedal on the floor board to allow the exhaust valve to open slightly to make cranking the starting handle easier.  This system is still operable, however it is not overly difficult to start the car without this compression relief system engaged.  All of the original brass cooling lines are present, but the original brass fuel line had damaged connections on each end, and I could not get them to seal tightly enough to prevent fuel leaks, and I subsequently simply replaced this original fuel line with a modern flexible fuel hose and connectors.  I still, however, have retained the original fuel line for the next owner, upon request.   The following is a fairly comprehensive list of components present on this car that are not original, but are reasonably remanufactured to resemble original components, or were era correct:
  • Top irons, bows and canvas –these were optional and not fabricated by REO, but rather by specified outside vendors.  REO provided the brackets mounted inside the seats, if ordered for a top to be installed later.
  • Brass horn and bulb
  • Front brass radiator emblem
  • Tires and tubes
  • Horizontally mounted floor boards (2), originals are on hand
  • Firewall, original on hand
  • Stencil on seat pedestal replaced by decal
  • Brass fuel line and connectors, original on hand
  • Brass cooling line connectors, originals on hand
  • Starting crank
  • Radiator tank, original on hand
  • Mother-in-law seat, this was optional and was never fabricated by REO, but was ordered from various outside vendors as an option.
  • Running boards, originals on hand
  • Battery box top
  • Mahogany steering wheel, original on hand
  • Various nuts, bolts and screws too numerous to detail

REO cars of this year had a linoleum type of floor covering originally, and I opted to simply showcase the underlying varnished and stained hardwood which REO used, rather than cover this beautiful wood with linoleum. 

The E&J side and rear lanterns came with this car when I purchased it, and I have had a spirited debate with several members of the REO Club of America as to whether these were original or not in 1908.  These lanterns were weathered to the exact same extent as the rest of the car, and the 1908 patent pending label embossed into the tops of each suggests to me that these were original to the car, although the debate rages on.

Although I may have unintentionally omitted a few minor components which have been replaced, the rest of this car is as it came from the REO plant in Lansing, Michigan when it was completed in 1908, and accordingly I would assign an approximate original component ratio at 98%, although this figure can be debated either based on total weight, total volume displacement of each component, or simple number of components vs. total number of components originally present.

Refurbished by Steven K. Angvick from June through October, 2011.  Sold on November 7, 2013

 

oldmotorsguy@yahoo.com

oldmotorsguy.com

By oldmotorsguy