- Engine has been disassembled and gone through for any significant problems. New rings were installed, valves were lapped and adjusted, bearing clearances were adjusted/shimmed to the specified 15/1000″ clearance, cylinder head was resurfaced, new nickel plated head bolts and copper gasket installed. When I purchased the car, I discovered that the original 1925 short block was severely cracked and the cylinder head was warped, and was no longer serviceable, and was replaced by a serviceable 1921 era short block and cylinder head. The original damaged short block has been retained, and can be purchased separately and shipped separately from this eBay listing, please contact seller if the original block is needed for authenticity purposes, and seller can price this damaged block for sale and shipment based on location of the ultimate purchaser.
- All tires including spare have virtually zero miles on them, although they were installed at some point in the past by the previous owner(s), and are road ready. All rims including spare rim have been serviced to insure reliability and all wood spokes have been checked for tightness and re-varnished with 4 coats of spar varnish.
- New radiator installed
- Brake light actuated by foot pedal added for safety during operation, was not original equipment
- All three locks have keys and function as they should: ignition, passenger door and trunk.
- Coils have been tested, tuned and are functioning perfectly
- Runs on both battery and magneto
- Minor upholstery upgrades, although the existing upholstery is in very good condition with no tears or fraying apparent.
- Fresh trunk liner and carpet installed
- Door panels re-upholstered
- All windows adjusted, serviced, lubricated and all 5 moving windows function as they should
- Carburetor rebuilt
- Generator cleaned and brushes cleaned and reinstalled for maximum performance
1935 Chrysler Airstream Touring Sedan. This great looking car was restored to near original condition around the late 1980’s or early-to-mid 1990’s. The gentleman I purchased it from owned it from 1996 and had taken great care of it, using it rarely in parades and a few car club functions. This older restoration still looks in excellent condition and runs and drives smoothly. It has an in-line 6 cylinder engine, with a three-speed manual transmission with overdrive. It appears that a hydraulic brake booster has been added to the brakes, and gives an assist in bringing this 3,050 pound car to a stop without great effort.
Of significant note, when I parked this car in my wife’s spot in the garage while I worked on some minor mechanical issues after I purchased the car, and after I drove the car to test all of systems, it appears there are absolutely zero fluid leaks: no rear end or oil pan leaks, no anti-freeze, no leaks of any kind were present on the garage floor when I moved the vehicle after about a week of minor maintenance in this one location. Ordinarily, 80 year old machines almost always leak something, but not this old beauty.
The previous owner tells me that he had recently spent $1100 on the brakes, and from what I can tell from driving the car, and by the way it stops it appears money well spent. The engine starts immediately when cold with a manual choke, and warms up quickly. No noises, unusual vibrations or visible emissions are present, and it runs quietly and smoothly. All gauges work as they should, and while the speedo works OK, it makes noise at certain speeds. The paint is a lacquer application as was popular in older restoration, and is checking most noticeably on the front passenger door and passenger side hood section, in addition to nicks and scratches in the paint in other areas but it really does not detract from a general excellent appearance overall. A truly nice looking car that has been superlatively maintained over its lifetime. There is virtually no rust anywhere, and looking at the undercarriage suggests this car was never run in foul weather, and as of the last 25 years has been a relative trailer queen more than a daily driver.
The following are items that are non-operational, but may disappear from the listing as I am continually working on these items:
- Turn signal lever has broken off. Accordingly, I can’t tell if the turn signals work or not, but I am in the process of correcting this. Turn signals were not OEM to this car.
- Heater is not connected to the cooling system. ( IMHO, this car is way too nice to be run in the cold weather anyway, but that’s just me.)
- AM radio is non-operational, but all the components seem present and intact.
- The speedometer/cable make noise at certain speeds.
- Fog lights (aftermarket additions) are non-operational
- Rear passenger compartment overhead light is non-operational
This car is one of the finest restorations I have done to date, I am very proud of this effort. When I bought it from a car dealer in Cleveland, OH, it had many issues but was amazingly intact and still had many of the original components to include the original top, original seat and original pane windshield plates. The engine had an annoying tick that I thought might be a simple valve adjustment at the time, but turned into something a bit more complicated: two broken timing gear teeth on the original fiber timing gear. What I had hoped would be a little minor engine work turned into a rebuild.
Additionally, I was hoping I could simply use a lot of rubbing compound and a bucket or two of elbow grease to bring back the shine in what turned out to be original paint, but that effort fell completely flat and I had the car repainted. The top and upholstery, while original, were entirely worn out and raggedy and accordingly I replaced those components as well, in addtion to another list of parts about as long as my arm.
Included on that list but not a comprehensive list:
- Repaired torn insulation on about 8 of the 12 coils on the coil ring
- New rings
- New exhaust manifold
- Replaced warped head with reconditioned and milled head, new copper head gasket
- Lapped and adjusted the valves
- Replaced the timing gear
- Adjusted and re-shimmed all bearings
- Removed the black paint from wheel spokes, stained and varnished
- Removed old tires and replaced with new white Firestone tires including spare
- Installed rebuilt carburetor
- Installed rebuilt generator
- Repaired faulty ignition coils and coil box
- Replaced worn original radiator with new radiator
- Repaired ignition and starter switches
- Repaired non-operational headlights and installed missing tail light
- Re-lined parking brakes with new lining and rivets
- Repacked front Timkin wheel bearings
- Replaced all hoses and fan belt
- Removed faulty water pump and returned system to original
- Replaced interior dash panel that had way too many holes drilled into it, it was completely ruined
- New interior kick panels
- New seat upholstery
- New back seat upholstery
- New floor mat
- Repaired original floor boards
- Repaired original top bow and irons
- New top
In the end, this car is a real looker. I am extremely pleased at how this beautiful car looks now, I am confident the new owner will be extremely pleased with this nice antique automobile.
Here are a few photos of a 1922 Ford Model T Touring, purchased about a year ago and kept in storage until recently. The car is most certainly a driver,and not a show car. Body is quite rough in places but is intact and original. Paint was done by an amateur several years ago but is a ‘twenty footer.’ Once warmed up, visible emissions are evident from a fairly well running engine with recent rebuild on carb. New wiring, new headlight reflectors, relatively new top, upholstery and tires. A few button caps missing from font seat, some minor damage to the interior fabric of the top, and a very small crack in the corner of one of the windshield panes, but otherwise pretty straight. Minor oil leaks (what Model T doesn’t), but all in all a good running car.
I had purchased this car in Dayton, Ohio last year and had planned on restoring it to its former glory: rebuild the engine, restore the metal work and body damage, and repaint. Alas, the car kept slipping to the back burner, and accordingly just sat in my storage facility, racking up storage rental fees onto its cost basis. After careful consideration, I decided to put it up for sale, and as luck would have it, the former owner in Dayton saw the eBay listing, had missed having it around and bought it back.
This 99 year old beauty has truly led a sheltered life, and I am confident the new owner will be pleased with this outstanding restoration of a 1917 Ford Model T Touring car. I purchased it from a party in Connecticut after “Grampa” died and the son bought it from Grampa’s estate and put it up for sale. Grampa did very well as a custodian of this car, as there was virtually zero rust, and nearly all of the common components missing on similar century old vehicles were still present on this one: the original nickel plated hubcaps are intact, and not banged, dinged and scratched owing to these being the widest point of the car.
Additionally, Grampa had begun a restoration that was very well done, to include a new cobra skin era correct top on the original top irons, and a nicely installed new upholstery kit in era correct vinyl. A new radiator was also a welcome surprise when I received the car after only viewing photos of it while in storage. All in all, a very nice car even before I started the restoration process.
The only issue I had with this 99 year old car (manufactured in September, 1916, so not quite 99 years old but close enough) was that all of Henry Ford’s cars came without an electric starter prior to 1919. Accordingly, the tried and true method of hand cranking the car from the front was the only way to start this car, and I did get it started in this fashion a few times and decided that an electric start is essentially mandatory.
I began the process of installing a starter, and the process was much more involved than simply saying ‘add a starter to it.’ Basically, the transmission cover which accepts a starter mount had to be installed, as well as a replacement transmission that already had a starter ring gear mounted on the flywheel. Rather than try and drill out the old flywheel to accept a ring gear, I replaced the entire transmission with what appeared to be a 1925-era Model T transmission with everything I needed already good to go. That, and finding a good condition starter, rebuilding the Bendix, changing out a few of the linkage components to accommodate a later tranny, and a rather involved list of other minor little tasks made this ‘just add a starter’ statement about a three week project. A major headache that I had not planned for was that the replacement transmission’s magneto was exceptionally weak, only producing about 3 volts. I had to rebuild this magneto and recharge all 16 “V” magnets, verify that all 16 coils mounted on the coil ring were solid, and then get the clearances between the spinning magnet clamps and the coil surfaces to within a tolerance of between .025″ and .040″ – a very trying process. But in the end, this magneto now generates all the spark that this old car will ever need.
Since these cars never had starters in the first place, I decided to discreetly mount a starter button that was wired discreetly to a 6 volt solenoid mounted to where the starter button would have been on a 1919 model and later. The starter button is visible in one of the photos, but I will let the ultimate owner find it first before I point it out. It’s there, but not readily visible.
Much more mechanical work was also involved in the nearly frame off restoration of the car (but the body never came off the frame), and it turned out relatively well. I am very pleased at how this project flowed, as it was the first time I have attempted to upgrade a car to accommodate an electric starter. It was a good experience having done this for the first time. The only down side on this particular project was the weather: it has been exceptionally cold for the last month, and there’s just too much salt on the roads for my likes to take this car out and put a few hundred road miles on it to ‘break it in’ (remember having to do that to cars back in the day?). In order to seat the newly installed piston rings and freshly lapped valves, the best I could do was put it through its paces on jackstands, and run the car for a few hours inside my nice, heated garage. I simply could not stand to contemplate getting all of that Chicago salt all over it, as it appears none of the prior stewards of this car did that, and I was not going to be the first.
- Removed the old leaking carburetor and installed a freshly rebuilt NH carburetor
- Most of the electrical wiring has been replaced, to include lights, timer, ignition. The horn wires and battery to starter cable was in good shape and was not replaced. None of the headlights or tail lights were hooked up, and many parts were missing from the lighting system, all shortcomings in the light system have been rectified.
- The emergency brake shoes and linkages were missing, I replaced the entire emergency brake system to include shoes, pads, linkages.
- The truck had an inferior distributor and coil conversion, I removed this system and returned it to original rebuilt buzz coils and new ignition timer and ignition wires.
- The ignition was jerry rigged by an amatuer mechanic to run the engine only if the lights were turned on with a jump wire, since no ignition key was sold with the vehicle. I obtained the correct key, and returned the ignition to standard Ford configuration.
- The truck was missing the hood and both doors, I installed new hood and installed new wood doors with original-type Model T hardware.
- The leaking and corroded exhaust system was replaced, including the manifold, exhaust pipe, tail pipe and muffler.
- The existing slipshod floorboards were replaced with correctly configured plywood and poplar materials.
- The driveshaft pulley was terribly bent and out of balance, and was replaced.
- A small 15″ wooden poorly functioning aftermarket steering wheel was replaced with the original Fordite steering wheel, and the wobbly steering column was reinforced for improved stability.
- New tires and tubes was claimed. I found some minor age cracks in the rear tires, but virtually no wear on them, and the front tires appear to have no wear, either. While these tires are not new, they have exceedingly low mileage if any mileage at all on them.
- Good front end was claimed. I discovered some movement in the tie rod bushings, but it shouldn’t significantly impede the functioning of the front suspension system.
- Rebuilt engine with new babbitt bearings was claimed. I did not disassemble the engine to verify this, but when I ran it during my inspection it ran perfectly, with no noises, vibrations or visible emissions. I am pleased with the condition of the engine, and have no reason to doubt that it has been rebuilt with very little wear since its rebuild.
- The magneto was claimed to have been removed. I verified that there is no magneto function.
The tank on the back is divided into three sections, with no valves at the bottom of each. Upon inspection, each tank has apparently been out of commission for an extended period, and all three sections would require sealing and valve installation prior to use. Since this vehicle is 90 years old, I would suspect that its days of hauling 300 gallons of oil/gas are well behind it, and I would not recommend trying to press this vehicle back into service unless the tanks have been completely redone, the leaf springs replaced and the wheel hubs replaced and wooden wheel spokes replaced at a minimum. My best guess as to its current capacity would be perhaps using only one of the three sections, or no more than 150 gallons, max.
1926 Ford Model T Touring car, runs and looks great, sold in August, 2014. Everything is functional that should be, to include:
- Runs very well on both battery and magneto
- Generator charges at approx. 7-8 amps when running according to the working ammeter
- Foot starter button easily engages the 6-volt starter, but also starts with hand crank in front
- Low/high forward speeds and reverse work as they should
- Convertible top folds up and down and can be done by one person ( it is called a ‘one man top’ but one woman can do it as well).
- Radiator cools nicely, and uses no water pump (only Henry Ford’s preferred ‘thermosiphoning’ at work)
- Fully inflated and functional spare tire with reconditioned split rim
- All tires are relatively fresh (one is brand new), with no age cracks. The spare has slight age cracks, but is a very solid tire with lots of tread left
- Have run the car up to 42 mph, as measured by GPS. It cruises nicely in high gear at approx. 35 mph, but will certainly go faster.
This car is currently fresh off of my restoration efforts, and is not a bad looking car given that it is now 42 years old. I purchased this car from a party in Colorado, and when I repaired/replaced the following:
- New convertible top with headliner
- New exhaust sytem
- New heater system, including all new heater boxes, ducts, cables, vents, and an upgraded heat blower detailed below
- New shock absorbers
- New interior and trunk carpeting
- New horn
- New upgraded winshield washer pump detailed below
- Newly installed engine dress up kit, including valve covers, fan shroud and more.
- Fresh tune up kit, including points, condensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotor and cap
- Fresh gas filters, new gas lines, air filters and oil change
- New windshield wipers
- New trunk and engine cover seals
- Fresh low profile directional Nanking tires, with new spare and new spare rim with new lug wrench
- New door seals
- Replaced both floor pans, seal coated fresh metal and surrounds
- Too many other minor parts to comprehensively list
They say German engineering is the finest in the world, but there were a few systems on this Beetle that were flat out drawing board failures, and I chose to fix them, namely:
1. Heater system. The original heating system on these bugs were infamous for their poor performance straight off the show room floor, they never worked very well at all, especially the defroster. The engine fan was designed primarily to cool the air cooled engine, and perhaps 20% of the air movement was directed to the heating system when the heater lever was engaged. Since this forced air had to travel over 10 feet from the fan to the dash board, almost no air reached the windshield. To correct this, I purchased two Detmar 12 volt in line fans and mounted them inbetween the heat exchangers and the rear heater vents. When engaged, these blowers which came off of a Roush Racing team NASCAR race car (used by Roush to cool brake linings) increase the forced heated air flow to the interior of the car and especially to the windshield perhaps as much as 500%. In fact, they heated the car so well, I had to install a rheostat to enable the driver to reduce the fan speeds of these blowers so that the car did not get too hot: something NEVER before said about a convertible beetle, ever in their 70 year history.
2. Windshield washer system. The factory system had the spare tire providing air pressure to the washer fluid reservoir, and pressurized tubing was plumbed from the reservoir up to the windshield wiper activator, and from there to the hood nozzle. Any failure along any of these fittings, from spare tire to reservoir to activator would depressurize the entire system and leave the Beetle with no windshield washer and a flat spare tire. Terrible engineering, bound to failure at any number of points in the system. Rube Goldberg could have engineered a better (and likely more entertaining) system, and it would have had the same reliability as the original: meaning poor at best. To remedy this unreliable system, I simply purchased a new washer pump designed for a 1980’s Toyota Celica, mounted it at the bottom of the reservoir, lead the 12 volt wiring to a button under the dash, and problems solved, chance of failure of this system almost zero.
Recently sold to an international party, this 1977 GMC Sierra 1500 stepside pickup truck was originally purchased in Arizona, is rust free and relatively low mileage (81,965 original miles).
SOLD – 1919 Ford Model T Touring. This car was dubbed “Cynthia” by my daughter, but more aptly named ‘Barney’ by me, since most of its life to date has been spent in a barn or two. I started with a pretty rough looking car with rough sheet metal simply wired to the frame, no seats, top irons and the wrong size radiator (high instead of low), but whose engine was rebuilt but never run in the early 1970s by two owners ago. I obtained this car from a party in Minnesota who bought it from the heir of the rebuilder in 2011, and have been working part time to assemble this car back to its former glory. Primary work to date includes much new body wood, new front and rear heel panels, new Ford logo floor mats, reconditioned gas tank, new sediment bulb and gas lines, new brake lining, new splash aprons, new safety glass, new radiator and radiator hoses, refurbished oil lanterns, recondtioined electrical igntion system to include (4) coils and dash panel by Bob Stauffer of Shaumburg, Illinois. Also added were new Firestone tires and tubes, new Kevlar transmission band linings, new motometer with dogbone, new cowl and radiator lacing, rebuilt rear end, reconditioned spare tire rack and spare tire with tube and vinyl Ford logo cover, rebuilt front end, new hubcaps, new floor boards, new wiring, new front and rear upholstery including kick panels, new top irons and top and fresh gloss black paint, although the paint job is not quite up to Pebble Beach showroom standards. At least it’s black and shiney, like Henry Ford liked it.
NOT INCLUDED with sale: luggage rack and antique leather luggage, 1919 Illinois license plate, side bulb horn